美国部分餐厅正尝试取消小费制度,通过提高菜单价格向员工支付更高且稳定的时薪,旨在促进前后场员工收入公平,并消除小费带来的性别与种族差异 1。例如,纽约素食餐厅 Dirt Candy 于 2015 年取消小费,老板 Amanda Cohen 目前支付员工约 30 美元的时薪 1。在加州奥克兰一家取消小费的餐厅中,员工 Cassidy Van der Kamp 的时薪从约 10 美元加小费提高到了 21 美元 1。旧金山 La Cigale 餐厅人均定价 140 美元且不接受小费,其侍酒师 Caroline Kraetzer 的时薪达到 40 美元 1。马萨诸塞州 Lynn 市 Nightshade Noodle Bar 老板 Rachel Miller 也在疫情后转为无小费模式,其七道和九道品尝菜单的起价分别为 102 美元和 126 美元 1。
然而,这一模式在实践中面临挑战。康奈尔大学餐饮管理教授 William Michael Lynn 指出,取消小费导致菜单价格上升,顾客难以适应,需求下降 1。此外,由于提价导致销售额增加需缴纳更多销售税,且顾客对高价敏感,部分餐厅在尝试后被迫恢复小费模式 1。例如,马萨诸塞州剑桥市 Talulla 餐厅在 2020 年取消小费并将菜单价格提高 23%,但该模式仅维持到冬季,于去年 9 月恢复小费 1。
Some restaurants across the United States are eliminating the tipping system by raising menu prices to pay their staff higher and more stable hourly wages 1. This shift is designed to promote income equity between front-of-house and back-of-house employees while eliminating the gender and racial disparities often associated with tipping 1.
At San Francisco's La Cigale, the per-person pricing is set at $140, and sommelier Caroline Kraetzer earns an hourly wage of $40 without accepting tips 1. In New York, the vegetarian restaurant Dirt Candy abolished tipping in 2015, and owner Amanda Cohen currently pays her staff approximately $30 per hour 1. Similarly, at a no-tip restaurant in Oakland, California, employee Cassidy Van der Kamp saw her hourly wage increase from about $10 plus tips to $21 1. Meanwhile, Rachel Miller, owner of Nightshade Noodle Bar in Lynn, Massachusetts, transitioned to a no-tip model after the pandemic, offering tasting menus starting at $102 for seven courses and $126 for nine courses 1.
William Michael Lynn, a restaurant management professor at Cornell University, notes that eliminating tips leads to higher menu prices, which customers struggle to adapt to, resulting in decreased demand 1. Furthermore, the increased sales from higher prices require restaurants to pay more in sales taxes, and customer sensitivity to elevated prices has forced some establishments to revert to the traditional model 1. For instance, Talulla in Cambridge, Massachusetts, eliminated tips and raised menu prices by 23% in 2020, but only maintained the policy until winter before bringing back tipping last September 1.
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