西班牙厨师兼美食作家贝尔塔·阿尔瓦雷斯·阿卡尔出版了《战时食谱》一书,记录了1939年西班牙内战结束后至1952年配给制取消期间的饥荒年代的烹饪方法1。这本食谱集汇聚了西班牙人在严重物资短缺下的创意烹饪实践,展现了他们如何通过想象力用面包、洋葱等替代食材来烹制传统菜肴1。
这段时期的饥荒极为严重。根据历史学家米格尔·恩赫尔·德尔·阿尔科·布兰科的研究,1939年至1942年间约有200,000人在西班牙死于饥饿1。马德里、巴塞罗那和瓦伦西亚等主要城市的饥荒尤为严重1。书中记录的食谱通过具体案例展示了这种困境,比如战时土豆煎蛋卷用浸泡的面包和洋葱替代鸡蛋和土豆1。阿尔瓦雷斯从其曾祖姑母的手写食谱中获得灵感,开始着手研究这一时期的烹饪历史1。
Spanish chef and food writer Berta Alvarez Acal has published a cookbook documenting the creative cooking methods that sustained her nation during the lean years following the Spanish Civil War.1 The book, Recetas de Guerra (War Recipes), captures recipes spanning from 1931, when Spain's Second Republic was established, through 1952, when the rationing system was finally abolished.1
The recipes reveal how Spanish cooks adapted traditional dishes using whatever substitutes they could find when essential ingredients vanished from markets.1 One wartime tortilla, for instance, replaced eggs and potatoes with soaked bread and onions.1 This period of deprivation was particularly severe in Madrid, Barcelona, and Valencia.1 Historian Miguel Ángel del Arco Blanco documented that approximately 200,000 people died from hunger in Spain between 1939 and 1942 alone.1
Alvarez Acal drew initial inspiration for her research from handwritten recipes passed down from her great-great-aunt, which became the foundation for exploring how ordinary Spaniards survived through "a lot of imagination" when conventional foodstuffs were unavailable.1
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