法国传统咖啡馆和小酒馆正面临大规模关闭的威胁。1从1900年的估计50万家减少到目前的3万至4万家,每天仍有两家咖啡馆关闭。1这一急剧衰退背后的原因包括法国人酒精消费量的下降——从1960年代的人均200升跌至现在的80升。1
咖啡馆关闭加剧了乡村社区的孤立,超过60%的乡村村庄人口已经无法获得本地商业服务。1为应对这场危机,多个组织和地方政府积极介入。成立于2020年的1,000 Cafés协会已在超过300个社区开展工作,1而一些地方政府也投入资金维持咖啡馆运营——例如Charny-Orée-de-Puisaye镇政府在Au Bon Acceuil咖啡馆的基本运营上花费了25,000欧元。1
为了长期保护这一传统,相关部门提出了多项方案。2023年向法国参议院提交的一份报告建议政府放宽对小型乡村咖啡馆、酒店和餐厅的监管。1此外,法国餐厅协会主席Alain Fontaine主张将咖啡馆申报联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产,1以赋予这些被视为法国文化和社会生活中心的场所更高的保护地位。
France's traditional cafes and bistros are disappearing at an alarming rate, with the number of establishments plummeting from an estimated 500,000 in 1900 to between 30,000 and 40,000 today, as two venues shut down every day 1. This dramatic decline has intensified isolation in rural communities, prompting multiple organizations and local governments to launch rescue efforts aimed at preserving these institutions, which remain central to French cultural and social life.
The collapse of the cafe culture reflects broader shifts in French society and consumption patterns. Annual alcohol consumption per capita has fallen from 200 liters in the 1960s to 80 liters today 1, while over 60 percent of the population in rural villages now lack access to any local commercial establishments 1. In response, the 1,000 Cafés association, founded in 2020, has already begun work in more than 300 communities to sustain these threatened venues 1. Local authorities have also stepped in with financial support; the town of Charny-Orée-de-Puisaye, for instance, has invested 25,000 euros in essential operations at the Au Bon Accueil cafe 1.
Efforts to reverse the trend are expanding at both national and international levels. A 2023 report submitted to the French Senate recommended that the government relax regulatory requirements for small rural cafes, hotels, and restaurants 1. Meanwhile, Alain Fontaine, president of the French restaurant association, has advocated for designating cafes as intangible cultural heritage with the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization 1.
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