印度纺织刺绣工坊Chanakya International今年3月庆祝成立40周年，拥有1400名工匠网络为全球奢侈品牌提供高级手工艺服务1。其中一些工匠拥有第13代传承的工艺血统1。该集团由49岁的Karishma Swali领导，其父亲在1980年代建立了运营基础1。迪奥、普拉达、芬迪等顶级品牌都依赖Chanakya的工匠完成精细的刺绣与装饰工作，2023年迪奥曾在孟买印度门举办展览，特别展示与Chanakya的合作成果1。
然而，印度工匠的贡献长期缺乏充分的品牌署名。Ralph Lauren春夏2027系列礼服因使用未标注的印度zardozi刺绣引发批评1，芬迪秋冬系列手拿包采用的古吉拉特镜面工艺也引起争议，之后品牌网站才改为标注"意大利和印度Chanakya合作制造"1。欧盟规则允许在印度完成刺绣的服装贴欧洲标签，只要最后的建筑和整理在欧洲进行1。普拉达在去年Kolhapuri风格凉鞋争议后做出调整，随后与马哈拉施特拉邦和卡纳塔克邦合作，承诺为工匠提供三年培训计划1。
为培养新一代工艺人才，Swali在2016年创办了Chanakya手工艺学校，提供18个月的免费刺绣培训1。
Chanakya International, a leading textile and embroidery workshop, marked its 40th anniversary this March with a network of 1,400 artisans whose intricate handiwork has become integral to global luxury brands 1. The Mumbai-based operation, now led by Karishma Swali, 49, whose father established the business in the 1980s, supplies premium craftsmanship to renowned fashion houses including Dior, Prada, and Fendi 1. Some of the artisans working with Chanakya represent the 13th generation of their craft tradition 1.
The workshop's prominence in luxury fashion has intensified scrutiny around cultural attribution and appropriation. Dior showcased its collaboration with Chanakya through an exhibition at the India Gate in Mumbai in 2023 1. However, several high-profile controversies have emerged: Ralph Lauren's Spring Summer 2027 collection faced criticism for featuring dresses adorned with undisclosed Indian zardozi embroidery 1, while Fendi drew backlash over a fall-winter clutch using Gujarati mirror-work techniques 1. After the latter dispute, Fendi subsequently updated its website description to acknowledge "Italian and Indian Chanakya collaboration production" 1. Prada similarly adjusted its approach following last year's controversy over Kolhapuri-style sandals, subsequently partnering with artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka to commit to a three-year training program for craftspeople 1.
EU regulations permit garments embroidered in India to bear European labels provided final assembly and finishing occur in Europe 1. In response to these challenges, Swali founded the Chanakya School of Craft in 2016, offering 18 months of free embroidery training 1, reflecting efforts to formalize and preserve India's textile heritage while ensuring proper recognition within the global luxury supply chain.
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